L'Artisan, L'Artisan, L'Artisan
And, ok, a little Serge Lutens too (I don't seem to be able to post about perfumes without invoking his name!)
Dropped by Escentials with E today, lured by the promise of a tester for Fleur de Narcisse, L'Artisan's Grand Cru scent for 2006. I'm not familiar with narcissus, so wasn't sure what to expect. Narcisse starts off rather harshly: a raw, earthy scent, a little powdery (I smell a cool iris), that would put most floral-lovers off, I think. This (eventually) develops into a dry, green floral that is both subtle and beautiful. But if you thought the previous Grand Cru, Fleur d'Oranger, was expensive, prepare yourself for some real sticker shock: this one costs more than S$500 for 100ml. It's somewhat cheaper in the US, where it goes for US$295. Happily, this is a "like" rather than a "love" for me; I'm satisfying my lust with a pricy little decant off eBay.
My heart belongs to Fleur d'Oranger without a doubt. This was "love at first sniff", as Jean put it. This is for me the definitive orange blossom, joining the ranks of "perfect" soliflores I've come across (rose: Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare, jasmine: A La Nuit, tuberose: Carnal Flower). It's a piercingly sweet orange blossom that is not too citrusy, too bitter, or too spicy. Not that I mind the latter two, but they don't make for a pure floral. The dry down is greener but still beautful. It's also fairly tenacious.
Of course I've been lusting after it since I got hold of a sample. I just never felt like I could really afford it. The fact that Escentials now has it for S$415 (not too unreasonable since it goes for US$250 in the States), and that I finally have an income again, makes it too hard to resist! Happily for my wallet, I haven't been tempted by Serge Lutens' latest, Chypre Rouge and Fumerie Turque.
Finally we have L'Artisan's latest, Dzongkha. This is from their voyage series, which has previously introduced Bois Farine (love) and Timbuktu (hate). I don't have an opinion on this one yet, since I haven't tried it on my skin. It smells ok on paper but failed to knock my socks off. I really should give both Fou d'Absinthe and Dzongkha a fair go soon.
Now for Serge Lutens news. According to Jean, their next Export scent is the cinnamon-based Rousse. When she sniffed it in Paris, it reminded her of Feminité du Bois, which is a good thing, as far as I'm concerned. She was less wowed by the second semester scent, due in September 2007, an almond-based scent the name of which she couldn't recall off-hand. It's less sweet than Datura Noir, which is good news for me too.
